Gay Friendly Provincetown

You have to hand it to gay men for being so organized: no matter where you go in the country, there's always a gay Mecca within shooting distance: in the west, you've got San Francisco, In the East there's New York and if you head North, up the coast, there's Provincetown. P'town's reputation precedes it, and depending on your age or your outlook, it conjures many images: some see it as a non-stop source of summer flings, others see it as a relaxing vacation with "Family" and there are those who say the P'town after-bar scene is like a herd of cats in heat rubbing up against anything hard to satisfy them.

Regardless of what you've heard, it is probably safe to say Provincetown offers something for everyone whether you are gay, lesbian, trans-gendered, artist, innkeeper or DJ. Back in the Pilgrim Days, P'town was a fishing hub. At the turn of the 20th century, P'town faced increased competition from Nova Scotia's cheaper fishing industry, so it evolved into an artist, writer and resort destination which provided jobs to replace those lost to Nova Scotia.

In the 1920's the artistic productions of the town became world-renowned and the abandoned sail lofts, warehouses and barns quickly turned into studios, galleries and shops to provide a new home to a rising literary community including Eugene O'Neill whose landmark play, "Bound for East Cardiff" debuted in the tumbledown Wharf Theater. Over time, as in any popular destination, Ptown's real estate prices have risen significantly brining numerous condo conversions and economic expansion. Its tourist season has also grown to include festivals and weeklong events throughout the year.

Provincetown has always marched to its own drummer - tolerance prevails, all are equal, all are welcome. During the summer, you'll find yourself one minute in the midst of a flock of lesbians the next, a cast of drag queens with feather boas in tow and eye lashes as long as a seagull's wing. And don't forget the mid-western families wandering about looking for a Waffle House.


The lay of the land

Like a flamboyant drag queen, Provincetown is out - way out - located on the eastern-most tip of the 77-mile long Cape Cod peninsula. Calling any part of Provincetown a gay neighborhood is redundant, because, Provincetown is one big gay neighborhood. But if you take a closer look, there are actually three parts of P'town: The East End, The West End and Central.

The East End is the main route through which all visitors must pass upon entering town and heading to Central Provincetown and The West End. It is the 'art district' with many compelling galleries including the renowned Provincetown Art Association & Museum (PAAM) www.paam.org at 460 Commercial Street and the Provincetown Theater (www.ptowntheater.org) at 238 Bradford Street.

The West End, which starts at Court Street, is a mostly residential section of Colonial, Victorian and eclectic architecture. It includes the beachy area at the end of Commercial Street, the mile-long breakwater across Provincetown Harbor to Wood End and Herring Cove Beach and the salt marshes which run between First Pilgrims Park and the backside of Herring Cove Beach.

The Central Portion of Provincetown which runs between the East and West Ends. MacMillan Pier, at the intersection of Standish, Ryder, Gosnold and Commercial Streets, is the heart of it all. You can't miss Commercial and Bradford Streets which are presided over by the 252-foot Pilgrim Monument atop High Pole Hill.

Those planning to rent a car should remember the mantra, "Hail Mary full of Grace, Help me find a parking space," because parking is at a premium in P'town. If you must rent, get a compact car so you can squeeze yourself into "creative" spots tucked in the side streets and bring plenty of quarters to feed the meters. Most of the time, you are better off traveling on foot - what better way to build your base tan and - of course - be seen.

And a note to those physically attached to their cell phones: do not depend upon having a stable signal in most places in town. (Those of us with a certain disdain for cell phone poseurs will rejoice!)


Where to stay - Gay Friendly Hotels in Provincetown!

Provincetown has an almost unbeatable collection of gay, straight and mixed guesthouses. In the past, most were basic "Newhart-esque" New England inns that were long on historic charm but short on resort-style amenities. Lately, P'town has seen a significant upgrade of accommodations so more and more places will offer DVD players, wireless connectivity and whirlpool tubs. Many historic buildings have been painstakingly restored to their former splendor, and the better inns now offer real period furniture or excellent reproductions.

There are plenty of unique and antique guesthouses to choose from including the gleaming Victorian Crowne Pointe, situated above the center of town and hosts visiting gay-list celebs like Eartha Kitt and Cyndi Lauper. The Inn boasts a bricked garden and sunning area with two Jacuzzis and a small heated swimming pool. The resort's Shui spa has an indoor steam room, sauna and mineral bath. Massages, facials, wraps, manicures and pedicures are all on the menu.

Snug Cottage is a real New England Colonial inn built in 1825, with sun-filled rooms and junior suites, authentic period furniture, and modern amenities like Wi-Fi and modern tile baths. The inn is surrounded by well-tended gardens, making this a truly peaceful retreat, set just far enough from the bustle of downtown but still close enough to walk to bars and restaurants. Snug Cottage feels like a refined country estate -- relaxed, charming, and welcoming.

One of the best values in P'town, Christopher's by the Bay is a charming guesthouse that's developed a great reputation among value-minded travelers. The rooms are named for famous artists and very tastefully appointed with muted color schemes and attractively simple but upscale furnishings.

Crown & Anchor is both a lively party pad and a very nice hotel. Located in the heart of Commercial Street's dining, shopping and entertainment action -- and with multiple bars and lounges of its own -- The Crown & Anchor's the perfect resort for those who want to bunk in the center of P'town's social whirl.

Some guesthouses are aimed specifically at one demographic, like Gabriel's which is very popular with women. It features remote-controlled skylights, Wi-Fi, TVs with DVD players, in-room Jacuzzis, and fireplaces. It's guest rooms are themed to a particular noteworthy woman (Eleanor Roosevelt, Katharine Hepburn, Virginia Woolf). Though primarily a women's guesthouse, Gabriel's does welcome men.

If you are in the mood to people watch (or more accurately "cruise,") you'll want to find a place along Commercial street such as the Prince Albert Guesthouse which boasts a front patio that makes a great vantage point from which to watch for the boy parade.

If you are in the mood for a more traditional hotel, there are a few, like the four-diamond Crowne Pointe Historic Inn & Spa which offers and oasis of elegance, serenity and indulgence - at a price. Be assured that you'll pay for the view, service and elegant appointments but if that is your pleasure, go for it!


What to Do in Gay Friendly Provincetown

When you come to P'town, you can leave behind your crisp white Pilgrim collar and sensible shoes. Provincetown may have been founded by starchy Puritans but it now lies at the opposite end of the conservative spectrum. All lifestyles: straight, gay, artist, fisherman, tourist, local are welcome and co-exist peacefully in this welcoming town. This is, after all, New England's gay and arts Mecca and there is plenty to keep you busy.

In the summer, P'town is busy all week but especially on the weekends. Although lots of straight tourists come to town for the day, you'll see lots of openly gay couples holding hands as they stroll along Herring Cove. By day there's the beach, shopping, historic, and cultural offerings, bike paths, a growing crop of world-class art galleries, and the classic T-dance every summer afternoon. By night you can catch music, comedy, or cabaret acts by nationally known performers, or indulge in fun, affordable nightlife.

Provincetown is known for its beaches and waterfront. Rent a boat and explore our harbor. Surf cast for bass and bluefish or drop a line off the wharf and catch a flounder for dinner. Experience the thrill of seeing a whale frolic in the ocean. While you're at it, bring or rent a bike and explore the miles of bike trails through the National Seashore or maybe rent a kayak. And if you are in the mood for tennis, Provincetown boasts 2 excellent tennis clubs.

Outdoors lovers will find plenty of natural adventures in P'town and the adjacent National Seashore. The Cape Cod National Seashore's bicycle trails cover some amazing terrain: towering dunes, lovely green thickets of oak and scrub pine, pristine beaches and the white-capped ocean. The well-developed trails make this a great way to spend a few hours and get a little exercise. The National Seashore Visitors Center offers a number of interesting ranger-led hikes (all free) that explore the Seashore's flora, fauna, and history.

Herring Cove is the gay beach, all the way at the west end of town. If you walk west along Herring Cove for a long while, you'll eventually come to the very tip of Cape Cod and one of the most beautiful and isolated beaches anywhere. Be sure to bring water with you during the long walk. Nearby is one of the best beaches on the Cape: Long Nook is dramatic and private, and even has an au naturel section if you walk far enough to the right.

Race Point Beach (just beyond Herring Cove) is popular with families, but is still gay friendly. The beach is much wider and sandier than Herring Cove and there's a great lookout from where you can sometimes spot whales swimming by.

The Annual Provincetown Tennessee Williams Festival is a four-day festival dedicated to celebrating Williams' deep connection to Provincetown. The festival is held in late September and features performances of such Williams classics as The Glass Menagerie and A Streetcar Named Desire. Other notable festivals during the year include: Provincetown International Film Festival (June); Family Week (July); Provincetown Jazz Festival (August); Great Provincetown Schooner Regatta and Mate's Leather Weekend (September); Women's Week and Annual Fantasia Fair (October); Meet Your Man in Provincetown Weekend (November); and Christmas-themed Holly Folly (December). For more details, visit PrideCityGuide's calendar of events or pick up one of the local magazines found in most clubs.


Shopping and Dining in Gay Friendly Provincetown

Much of Provincetown's social and commercial enterprises are found on the aptly named Commercial Street which runs parallel to the harbor shoreline. Here, you'll find an abundance of eclectic shops from antiques to art galleries, from handcrafted jewelry and clothing, to interior design items to marine surplus. Provincetown shops have unique treasures for everyone and every pocketbook. It's a mile long shopper's paradise with shops and galleries like nowhere else.

There are myriad shops, boutiques, art galleries aplenty, truly outstanding restaurants featuring the very freshest seafood, toothsome Portuguese and Italian entrees (a few renowned eateries almost seem to have been here since 1620). Stop at Provincetown Portuguese Bakery (299 Commercial Street) for delectable sweet treats, breakfast, lunch and sandwiches. After lunch, it's easy to get lost in the wonderful eclectic mix of shops: one wonderful Commercial Street shop features an amazing collection of kaleidoscopes, another features stained glass and yet another has leather accoutrements!

Shops range from the tastefully arty to the outrageous. In summer, the streets teem with visitors and residents alike, milling around and browsing the galleries' myriad treasures and taking in the four centuries of architecture-Colonial, Federal, Greek Revival, French Second Empire and Gothic, Bauhaus, contemporary and ultra modern, to name a few.

If you love clam chowder or lobster with drawn butter, you'll think you're in heaven in P'town, and the resort also offers a full range of stellar, sophisticated restaurants turning out creative world-beat food that's on par with the best restaurants in Boston and beyond.

Whether savoring fish and chips from an outside stand, dining in a patio setting watching the Commercial Street "scene" or relaxing in world-class restaurant specializing in award-winning delicacies, Provincetown offers a wide selection of dining options to meet everyone's taste and price, so check PrideCityGuides for ideas or get out and explore - you won't be disappointed.

Gay Nightlife in Provincetown

While much of P'town's nightlife has been the same for years, the bars here still continue to feel fresh and fun during the summer, as visitors and newcomers are constantly changing the makeup of the crowds each night. Visit PCG's Barguide for a full listing of popular P'town clubs. Things get going on the early side here, running from T-dance time (3 p.m.) until 1 a.m. when the bars and clubs close.

Those who aren't ready to call it a night might be invited to a private after-party, but are most likely to be found on the street in front of Spiritus Pizza. Spiritus Pizza is the town's social hub. Grab a slice, an iced tea, or an ice cream, sit on the steps or a bench outside, and watch the parade go by. Or gather starting about 12:45 a.m. to watch the randy, drunken post-bar crowd gather and grow.

Summertime also draws top-name gay and gay-popular performers and DJs to Provincetown (expect to see the fabulous likes of Margaret Cho, and Broadway divas like Betty Buckley or Patti LuPone). Some are one-night-only gigs, but many are extended runs. After all, drag queens and DJs enjoy summer by the sea, too.

For those who follow the gay circuit, Provincetown is currently a destination of choice during the week surrounding the July 4th holiday, especially Bear Week, which follows Independence Day to unofficially 'kick off' the summer season.

It's hard not to love P'town. Nowhere else can you find so many gay women and men, crossing all age, economic, body, social strata, having such a good time together, all summer long. It's a real gay community that for once doesn't feel like a ghetto, and it's combined with the best of New England - quaint, charming, friendly and fun.

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